Free Car Lease vs. Buy Calculator
Compare the net cost of leasing against financing a car over the same time period, including the equity you'd build by buying. Leasing and financing are compared over the lease term you enter, since that's the natural window if you'd otherwise return the car at the end of a lease. Buying's cost accounts for your down payment and loan payments, minus what you'd recover by selling the car at that point. Trying a few resale-value estimates can show how sensitive the comparison is to how well the car holds its value.
Estimates only, not financial advice.
Leasing
Buying
Leasing
Buying
How leasing and buying actually compare
Comparing a lease payment to a loan payment directly is misleading, because they buy different things. A lease payment covers depreciation and finance charges for a fixed window. A loan payment covers those too, but leaves you owning an asset at the end. The only fair comparison measures both over the same period and credits buying for whatever the car is still worth.
A worked example. A $400/month lease with $2,000 due at signing over 36 months, against buying the same $35,000 car with $3,500 down at 7% over 60 months, assuming it's worth $20,000 after three years:
Lease — $2,000 + ($400 × 36) = $16,400
Buy — $3,500 down + ($623.74 × 36) = $25,955 cash out
Less equity: $20,000 resale − $13,931 still owed = $6,069
Net cost of buying — $19,886
Over these three years leasing costs about $3,486 less — but leaves you with nothing, while buying leaves you holding a $20,000 car with a loan still on it.
Why buying looks worse over a short window
Three years is roughly the worst point to evaluate a five-year loan. You've paid substantial interest, the car has absorbed its steepest depreciation, and the loan balance hasn't fallen far enough to leave much equity. Buying tends to win when you extend the window — the loan eventually ends and the payments stop, while a lease simply rolls into another lease.
Try raising the comparison period toward the full loan term and the result usually flips. That's the real question this calculator poses: not which is cheaper in the abstract, but which is cheaper for how long you'd actually keep the car.
The resale value assumption does the heavy lifting
Buying's net cost depends entirely on what the car is worth when you'd sell it, and that's an estimate rather than a fact. Change the resale figure by a few thousand dollars and the comparison can reverse. Models with strong resale reputations favor buying; vehicles that depreciate hard favor leasing, which is partly why lease terms differ so much between models.
It's worth running two or three resale figures — an optimistic one, a pessimistic one, and something in between — rather than trusting a single guess.
What the numbers don't capture
- Mileage limits. Leases cap annual mileage, commonly 10,000–15,000, with per-mile charges beyond it. High-mileage drivers can lose the lease's cost advantage quickly.
- Wear-and-tear charges. Returned leases are inspected, and damage beyond "normal" is billed.
- Warranty coverage. A leased car is typically under factory warranty the whole term. An owned car may face repair bills once the warranty lapses — a real cost this comparison omits.
- Flexibility. You can sell an owned car at any time. Ending a lease early is usually expensive.
- Modifications and use. Leases restrict what you can do to the vehicle.
When each option tends to make sense
Leasing tends to fit predictable, moderate mileage, a preference for a newer car with warranty coverage, and comfort with a permanent payment. Buying tends to fit longer ownership, higher mileage, and the goal of eventually having no car payment at all — which is where most of buying's long-run advantage comes from.
Neither is inherently the smarter financial choice. The answer depends on how long you keep cars and how many miles you drive, both of which you know better than any calculator.
What this calculator doesn't include
It compares cash out of pocket against resale equity over your chosen window. It doesn't model sales tax treatment (which differs between leases and purchases and varies by state), acquisition or disposition fees, mileage overage charges, maintenance differences, insurance differences, or the opportunity cost of a larger down payment. Lease deals also frequently include manufacturer incentives that this straightforward math can't reflect — compare the actual offer in front of you.
Frequently Asked Questions
How is the cost of buying calculated?
It totals your down payment and loan payments over the lease term you're comparing against, then subtracts the equity you'd have if you sold the car at that point — its estimated resale value minus whatever loan balance remains.
Why compare over the lease term instead of the full loan term?
It's the apples-to-apples window: a leased car is always returned at the end of its term, so comparing both options over that same span shows what each path actually costs if you'd keep the car only that long.
What if I'd keep a financed car much longer than the lease term?
Then buying gets progressively cheaper the longer you keep it, since you avoid starting a whole new lease or loan — this calculator only shows the cost over the one comparison window you enter.
Does this include maintenance or insurance differences?
No — leased cars are typically covered by a factory warranty for the full term, while an owned car may need repairs after its warranty expires. That real-world difference isn't modeled here.
Is this financial advice?
No — this is an estimate for planning purposes only, not financial advice. Actual lease and loan offers vary by lender and dealer.